Ol Pejeta Conservancy
Formerly called the sweet waters Game reserve, this impressive 97-sq-km (soon to be 300-sq-km) wildlife conservancy (adult/child US$25/13) is home of a wide variety of plains wildlife, including the big Five, massive eland antelopes and a plethora of birdlife.
There's also an important Chimpanzee sanctuary (9-9.30am - 3-4.30pm), operation by the Jane Goodall institute.
Sleeping and eating
There are two top-end accommodation options in the reserve.
Sweetwaters tented Camp (low season full board s/d US$90/180, high season US$235/310) recently purchased by Serena Hotels, this Equator-straddling place is up for some major renovations. There are currently 30 permanent tents beneath thatched roofs that sit beside a floodlit waterhole (tent numbers one and two have the best view). It has a lovely small bar and lounge where wicker abounds. Activities available include wildlife drives (US$45), walking safaris (US$21) and camel rides (US$11 per hour).
Ol Pejeta House (low season full board s/d US$10/170, high season US$270/390) once home to Lord Delamere and subsequently the holiday gateway of the now bankrupt international arms dealer Adnan Kashoggi, this house has also just been bought by Serena Hotels. Whether they'll keep Adnan's lavish decoration sand his massive 4m x 4m bed is anyone's guess. Rates include wildlife drives.
Getting there and away
You can visit the reserve independently if you have your own vehicle. Access if is off the A2 highway south out of Nanyuki. Mt Kenya safari club (p273) runs half the wildlife drives for US$55 per person (minimum 2 passengers); guests staying two or more night gets free entry to the conservancy and lunch at Sweetwater's Tented Camp.
TIMAU
This tiny town is a convenient stop between Isiolo and Nanyuki and as a couple of interesting accommodation options, offering a range of activities.
Sleeping and Eating
Timau River Lodge (off A2 Hwy; camping kshs300; cottage incl breakfast per person Kshs1400). A wonderfully offbeat place, consisting of several lovely thatched cottages of varying sizes and a well-equipped campsite with a large covered cooking area. The restaurant (meals kshs150-450) is good and it happily caters to vegetarians.
Besides offering all-inclusive treks (US$70 per day) up Mount Kenya on the rarely used Timau route, the lodge also offers camel treks (Ksh 850 per day), cultural visits (Kshs600 per day) and safaris to Ol Pejeta conservancy (US$68, minimum two people). There is a good chance of seeing Elephants and other wildlife.
Ken Trout Guest Cottages (off A2 Hwy; camping Kshs300, half board cottages per person Kshs 2500) this place, 3km south of Timau, is a more mainstream establishment with an excellent restaurant (meals Kshs450; 11.00am to 5.00pm). There is some very good fishing here, although you pay everything you catch. The main house (which sleeps up to eight) is rented exclusively and has old plank floors and brick fire places in most rooms. The cottages are much smaller but more cosies.
Getting there and away
Any matatu running between Nanyuki and Isiolo or Nanyuki and Meru will happily drop you in Timau or at the turn off to either sleeping options.
El Karama Ranch
About 2km to the northwest of Nanyuki, El Karama Ranch (bandas per person Kshs2500) is on the Ewaso Ngiro Riva. Although still a working ranch, wildlife conservation is paramount and the 5668-hecters play home to lions, leopards, elephants, hippos, buffalo and rare northern species like Gravy's zebras and reticulated giraffes. Billed as a 'self service camp', it's an old family-run settlers' ranch with a number of basic but comfortable riverside bandas. Seated long-drop toilets and showers are close by.
Bring everything you need, including food. Activities here include wildlife walks, horse riding and camel safaris (see http://www.horsebackinkenya.com). Let's go travel (p10) in Nairobi provides a map with directions. During the rainy season you'll need a 4WD to get here, however, as driving around the ranch is discouraged and there's little public transport, it's usually better to phone and arrange to be picked up, generally from Nanyuki.
